Guanajuato was a big question mark for me. We had stopped briefly at the bus terminal last week on our way to San Mike (I feel I'm familiar enough with San Miguel Allende that I can call it that) - and frankly it didn't look like much. According to an erroneous Google search, the hostel appeared to be only 1.2k from the terminal - which caused some confusion as we had seen some amazing looking photos online so it was a little odd. Nevertheless - we seemed to have exhausted San Mike (getting spoiled) and were ready for a new place to explore.
I was set to walk from the terminal to the hostel as we had done in San Mike....but luckily my girlfriend checked the map again...turns out it was 7km to the hostel. I love to walk, but that's a little long in 27ºC wearing a rucksack. So we caught a bus.
I am really happy that we did. First, it was 10 pesos for both of us...and secondly, I didn't realize this (ladyfriend informed me on the way) - Guanajauto's main roads are tunnels under the city/highway.
These aren't modern, tunnels either. In fact, I was convinced that the bus was going to clip an arch and knock out a cornerstone - collapsing the entire system and burying us alive (more bodies for the museum maybe? - more on this later). The other insane part is that there are intersections in the tunnels...Mexican intersections....something I don't think I've experienced. Again, had a puckering moment when the bus veered down a tight side tunnel. I wanted to scream "It's not going to fit!" but remembered we were on public transit, where the driver had done the corner a million times.
To top it off heading down a very steep hill, the bus encountered three vehicles arranged like this:
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It was pretty tight and the bus was pretty long...so I figured the bus would stop and wait. Nope, slalomed right through like he was autocrossing - barely even slowed down. It was one of the more remarkable pieces of driving I've seen yet. I'm not entirely certain it was because he had a choice - the hill was steep and I wonder if the brakes could hold us in place. :-P
Amazingly - we arrived safe. Possibly because of the ever present shrine to Christ at the front of the bus...or maybe because the law of attrition has made Mexican bus drivers the best in the world.
There is supposedly only one hostel to stay in Guanajuato. Well, there are others - but they all got absolutely atrocious reviews. We are staying at La Casa de Dante. It's a little pricey - similar to Sayulita (255ea/night) - but seeing as it's near the end of our trip, no biggy. Regardless - we only booked two nights to start just in case Guanajuato was a dud.
One thing about this hostel that we read before hand - is that it's a 150 step climb or decent in either direction - and that it was a little out of the way (15 minute walk into town). On paper, this seems a little weird - even while climbing the steps, I was thinking ("This better be worth more than a glute work out) - and boy is it ever.
Perched on the side of a super steep hill the hostel overlooks the old and very beautiful Guanajuato (we must has seen the modern tail of the city coming through the first time). Our beds are window-side and have an amazing view. Additionally there are 2 terraces on the roof.
We almost didn't leave to explore (despite being starved and peso-less)...the view was that good.
Pictures don't really do it justice:
I alluded to it earlier. The other thing that Guanajuato is known for (unbeknownst to me), is one of the creepiest museums in the world.
Apparently - there was a cholera outbreak at some point, during which the victims were quickly buried (some alive). Due to the conditions of the burial, they all mummified. Later, someone had the brilliant idea to disinter them all and display them to the public (families could pay a tax to avoid this, but no-one could avoid it).
I am on the fence about going. I don't like the idea at all buuuuuuuut....somebody I know does and I feel that I should go if she goes....we'll see.
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